The fashion industry’s problems also on display during Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week, which opened its doors on Wednesday 21 September, has once again proved that it not only sets the tone for future trends but also discusses business achievements and obstacles. Key trends include record sales figures and issues that the industry is facing at the moment due to the energy crisis.
The President of the Italian Fashion Chamber, Carlo Capasa, opened Milan Fashion Week with a speech about the industry’s record sales figures. After the pandemic, the Italian fashion business has regained much of its former success and power, with turnover up by 25% in the first half of 2022. One of the reasons for such strong growth is that Chinese buyers have returned for the first time since the Covid-19 lockdowns.
The fashion world is moving into turbulent times due to the conflict between Russia and Ukraine. The energy crisis will undoubtedly have a negative impact on the fashion industry.
“The energy crisis has a significant impact on fashion because the entire upstream supply chain is energy intensive,” conceded Carlo Capasa.
This is clear because a considerable amount of energy is required to produce raw materials, which are needed to make fabric and bags. Before the crisis, energy accounted for 10% of the final cost of the product. Currently, energy accounts for 30% of that cost. This has caused embarrassment for companies. However, Italy’s general election will be held on 25 September and the fashion industry is hoping for the government come up with measures to counter rising energy prices.
Fashion shows and new trends
Milan Fashion Week runs from September 21 to September 26 and features 61 live shows and six digital events. It also includes 110 presentations from luxury brands such as Gucci, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Versace and Bottega Veneta. At the beginning of the Week, the Diesel, Fendi and Roberto Cavalli shows had the biggest success among fashion influencers: Leonie Hanne, Anna Dello Russo, Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio.
Diesel was the most eagerly anticipated show this year. According to the show tendencies, in the coming spring, we will see all the influencers in total looks made of aged ripped denim, cargo with fabric inserts, belt skirts and massive hoop earrings with the company logo.
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Fendi also presented its new collection yesterday. It seems that Kim Jones, creative director, is aiming to add colour to the brand to make it fresher. In their previous collections, we saw neutral colours mixed with orange and pink while acid green, blue and coral have appeared in the new collection. As for shoes, the bet was clearly made on platforms.
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The Roberto Cavalli show featured branded animal prints and catsuits. Within the framework of the collection, it is essential to note voluminous sleeves, draperies and pleating on skirts.
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On Friday and Saturday, fashion fans will have a chance to see Maximilian Davis (new head of Salvatore Ferragamo), Alum Filippo (new creative director of Missoni) and Marco De Vincenzo (new creative director of Etro) make their debuts. The digital shows will take place on Monday.
Text: Daria Tolbatova
Photo: Michael Lee through Unsplash